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I like to think of myself as a traveler rather than a
tourist. When I visit a place, I spend as much time as I can exploring how
people live rather than just “seeing the sights.” So, when Seven Seasons in Siena by Robert Rodi crossed my Kindle, I was really interested.
Siena is one of my favorite places. It is a medieval Tuscan
city, complete with winding streets that travel up and down the hills of the
town. The absence of cars allows visitors to imagine how things might have been
throughout its history. It has a long history of democratic government and has
avoided both external pressures from nearby kingdoms, and major internal
conflicts.
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| Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1435542 |
Siena is probably best known for Il Palio- a horserace held twice a year, in July and August. But
this is no ordinary horserace. The race takes place around the edge of the
Piazza del Campo, Siena’s main square, which is shaped kind of as a clam shell,
with one side higher than the other. For visitors, the Palio is a celebration
of medieval spectacle, complete with costumed flag jugglers. Then there is the
excitement of the race; three laps around the dirt covered course, jockeys
riding bareback, navigating two 90 degree turns on each lap. But for Senese,
the significance of the race is much deeper. And that is what Mr. Rodi explores
in this wonderful book.
Robert Rodi first visits Siena during the Palio, and
immediately falls in love with the city, as do many. But he has a local friend
to guide him – Dario. Through Dario’s eyes and invitation Mr. Rodi gets a
glimpse at what the Palio means to the residents of Siena. That is because
Dario is from the Caterpillar contrade, or section of town, and it is
Caterpillar’s horse that has just won the race. So, Robert Rodi is invited to
celebration organized by the residents of the contrade that few visitors get to
experience. This gives him the impetus and desire to explore the cultural
significance of the Palio and its role in the history of Siena.
Robert returns to Siena six times, both during future Palios
and at times, when the city is considerably calmer. He spends time in the
Caterpillar contrade, getting to know the people who live there, and
volunteering with the groups that run events before and after the race, keeping
traditions alive. While Dario introduces Robert to life in the contrade, it is
Robert’s sincerity and perseverance that gains him the respect of the locals
and also gives him an insight to their history and cultural life.
Robert explores the role of the Palio in keeping peace in
Siena. For centuries the race has provided an acceptable outlet for internecine
rivalries. It provides a competition with rules, both official and sub-rosa,
and an outlet for passions. The race and the seventeen contradi of the city
also provide a sense of identity and belonging for residents of all ages,
allowing connections that go back centuries. These ties play a role in making
Siena one of Italy’s longest running democratic governments.
This book touched my heart. On my first trip to Italy, 20
years ago, we visited Siena during the week following the August Palio. We were
sitting at a café in the Piazza del Campo when a parade came by. It was a
post-race celebration by the winning contrade. No corporate sponsors, just
people who had put together costumes and floats celebrating their horse and
jockey, and poking fun at their losing rivals. They distributed wine and
panetone to those watching from the sidelines.
Robert’s experiences also reflect how I try to explore when I
visit places. Looking to go beyond the tourist experiences, I try to see how
people live. What is important to them? What ties them together? I aspire to do
what Robert Rodi has succeeded at in the book, and I am both appreciative and
jealous of his experiences. Mostly, I am happy that he has shared his time in
Siena, and has done so with such fine writing.